Will garlic change flavor of fruit trees



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Will garlic change flavor of fruit trees?

A:

There are, however, some ways you can add garlic to trees and fruit to keep fruit and tree sweet, and not for the other directions suggested.

Garlic is toxic to young trees. What that means is it lowers sugars in the sap and takes energy from the tree to process and dispose of the garlic before it harms the tree.

Garlic has the anionic smell. Some people say that anion (negatively charged) molecules repel each other and work as a repellent. Trees seem to have a small tolerance to the smell. This means it takes more to be effective. What I've noticed is that trees seem to react the least to anions with strong smells, and thus give the strongest reaction to a fizzing water mist or a continuous release of anions. I'm not sure why this is, but it's true. If it helps, and there is a pattern, try a continuous release of anions. A steady drip should be plenty strong. If it fails, just put the anion in an enclosed area and plant more trees.

Another way to apply it is with a carbon dioxide inversion, with a hand/bag pump and enough hose or hose pipe to get to the canopy of the trees.

A:

I'm a big fan of garlic as a mulch on my fruit trees. As @jwenting's answer shows, garlic does have a 'negative' effect on tree nutrition.

That said, as @Shaggy points out, only inorganic fertilizer acts by increasing the acidity of the soil. Applying a half to a full teaspoon of garlic a week (or inorganic fertilize) will increase the pH of the soil by several points. This is an important benefit, because soil with a pH greater than 6 is strongly conducive to bacterial growth.

That said, this would only apply to your fruit trees, not your vegetable garden, because of the additional benefit of increased water uptake.

The most direct way to get trees to eat the garlic is to leave it on top of the ground. It needs to be broken down or trod over to minimize leaching of the anions, however. Also, a mulch of ~1-2" of wood chips, with a similar mix of pine and hardwoods would minimize the effect of leaching. If the mulch is turned or remulched regularly (every couple months or so), and you use the leaves as well, you won't have to worry about leaching.

I will say that once you start applying garlic to the ground, you're basically limited to a per season/year application. Over time, though, the soil is absorbing the anions, so you'd really only have to apply once a year, or you could simply build your mulch over time, adding up to 2" at a time as needed.

Personally, I've never found garlic to make an impact on the flavor of the fruit, but I also don't have a lot of experience with it. Perhaps if you are planting a smaller, younger tree, it may work better.

As a little-me gardener, I also use cedar chips for a mulch, but I've had it last about a year before the soil reaches the level that I'd call 'leach'ing, although I have planted cherry trees with only the top 3" of mulch, and still had cherry blossoms on the trees in the spring. I don't think they get my soil pH any higher than normal, so I'd be curious to see what happens with your soil, given that you are already in a very acid (i.e. not 'alkaline') soil.

EDIT: Based on your clarification, it's clear that you would need to be applying a high level of fertilizer to achieve the result.

As @jwenting points out, you also seem to be considering applications of fertilizer, rather than soil nutrients. Fertilizers can contain compounds that can leach out and create a situation that you're trying to avoid.

One of the three primary ways that fertilizers affect the soil is by leaching, by attracting soil moisture, and by creating an artificial surface of fertility to help prevent surface run-off. Fertilizers can't do the latter and they leach fairly quickly. F


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Comments:

  1. Roger

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  3. Nathrach

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  4. Richmond

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